Foto Friday – Depth?

Well last week I mentioned not wanting to miss a Friday, but this week with all sorts going on I’m afraid I did just that.  Hope you can forgive me….  Anyway a day late here is a bit of discussion on ‘Depth of Field’.

Atlantic Puffin Fratercula arctica standing on rock carrying sand eels

Think of an imaginary line which extends from the front of your lens to the point furthest away from you in your photograph.  Now think of this as the ‘Depth’ of your photo.  By controlling the size of your aperture you can control the amount of this depth which will appear in focus.  A large aperture (which will have a small f-stop) will give you a very shallow depth in focus.  So we say it has a small or narrow depth of field.

Atlantic Puffin Fratercula arctica standing on rock

In these Puffin shots which I took at the Farne Islands in Northumberland I wanted the Puffin to be the most important part of the image.  So I chose a large aperture (small f-stop) which would mean only a small part of that imaginary line would be in focus.  Then I focused on the Puffin to make sure it was in that zone.  This has the effect of blurring anything in front or behind and making the Puffin stand out in the image.  You can see the blurring clearly if you look at the feet of the Puffin above and consider how sharp the rocks appear.

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The same technique was used for this baby Macaque although I think it was more successful with the Puffin.

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In this case with a Markhor I felt that I wanted a compromise.  I didn’t want the whole image to be pin sharp, as I still wanted the beastie to stand out somewhat, but I also wanted the landscape to be recognisable allowing the Markhor to be seen in a context.  The solution was to go with a mid range aperture (f-11 in this case).  The result was a little bit of blurring but not to much.

 

Sunset from on the North York Moors.  August 2011.

I’m going to leave you now (another busy day ahead of me today) with this shot I took over the North York Moors this summer.  What f-stop do you think I used, where did I set my focus point, but more importantly why do you think I chose them? 

Foto Friday – Exposure

Well here we are it’s Friday again so it’s Foto Friday.  Throughout the week my mind has been pondering exactly what to write for this post.  Last week we looked at selecting your camera.  From now on I’m going to assume you’ve got a DSLR and you’re happy with things like loading the batteries and putting in the memory card.  Time to start thinking about taking some actual photos!

Now we’ve all done it. Seen something breathtaking and wanted to capture it forever.  The thing is when you see the shot it’s such a disappointment, you wonder why you bothered. The image is all grey and grainy, or it’s all washed out you can’t see anything.  All those beautiful vivid colours are missing and your heart sinks down to your shoes.  You’re left with a flat and dull image.  Instead of inspiring you to show everyone you meet what a wonderful moment in time you experienced, it’s quietly consigned to a folder on your hard drive and soon forgotten. What’s going on and how do we avoid those disappointments?  Well it’s all down to exposure.

exposure-2

The first thing to realise is that your camera doesn’t work exactly like your eye. The human eye is an amazing piece of engineering and far outstrips the capabilities of our technology. It can adjust superfast to changing conditions and our brains are designed to interpret it’s signals far better than any software.  Your eye can also cope with a much wider range of light and dark than your camera, detecting many nuances you can’t record. (There are things you can do to improve this situation but we’ll look at those down the line.) So if the image isn’t exactly how you remember it, don’t kick yourself.  Well not too hard anyway ;)

So how do you get the light from your surroundings into a image? Your camera (regardless of which one it is) will have several things.

  • A lens. I know it sounds obvious but this is where the light comes into the camera. This is also the bit where the focusing is altered.

  • An image sensor. This replaces the film and is where the image is formed.

  • A Shutter. This is between the lens and the sensor. When you click to take a photo it will open allowing light through. Otherwise it’ll be closed.

  • A button to press to set everything in motion and make the magic happen.

Now in an ideal situation you want enough light to make it to the sensor to light up the darker areas of your image, but not so much as to make the bright bits a white blur.  You have 3 things you can control which will hopefully help you achieve this.  How fast the shutter opens and closes (the longer it’s open the more light will come through).  How wide the ‘hole’ will be, this is referred to as the ‘aperture’ (wider means more light for any given length of time).  You can also alter the sensitivity of the image sensor – this is the digital equivalent of the film speed.

exposure-1

So it’s time to get that camera off those preset shooting modes such as portrait or sport, and start taking some control.  Most DSLR’s will have a knob you can turn (often on the top left) where you can select the mode.  Av or A commonly means ‘Aperture Priority’.  We’re going to start with this one (simply because it’s my favourite).  Take a deep breath and turn that knob round to it’s new home :)

In this mode you can control how wide the opening is.  Think of the aperture like the iris in your eye.  It can open wide to let in a lot of light or be small only let in a tiny amount.  Your camera will have an inbuilt light metering system which will sense how much light is coming in and work out how long to keep the shutter open to give you a great image.  So you can think of this as either semi-manual or semi-automatic, whichever you prefer.  The important thing is that you are starting to control what’s going on and you’re moving from taking a photo to creating a photo.

Next week I’ll talk about how you can use the aperture size to control how much of the image is in focus (think of all those beautiful photos you’ve seen where the background is blurred making that pretty girl, cat, dog, squirrel or cake stand out).  I’ll also be using the ‘f’ word…. no not that one silly – ‘f-stop’.

Take care and have some fun this coming week playing with your camera…

Foto Friday…

Recently I’ve noticed a few people are doing posts themed on the day of the week.  Work In Progress Wednesdays, Fridays Find, that sort of thing.  This seems like a great idea and as I was pondering the possibilities it occurred to me that it might work well with another idea I’ve had floating about.  I little while ago Nikki of Sew Quine asked if I could recommend a good book on DSLR’s.  This is turning out to be quite hard.  You see I don’t actually own any books which fit the bill.  All of the books I have that describe the mechanics of cameras and photography were written for film cameras, (yup I really am that old) and so I’m not really comfortable recommending them for DSLR users.

camera-1 Don’t get me wrong the ‘basics’ are the same, but there will be bits that are different.  So maybe I could combine the ideas and write a series of posts on photography!  Once you’ve got the basics the best thing to do is play about.  Experience will always be the best teacher.

So what to start with……  Well how about with the camera.  DSLR stands for ‘Digital Single Lens Reflex’.  The digital bit is obvious but the other bit might need a little bit of explaining.  Basically you don’t really need to know how this works when you start out except that unlike little compact cameras, what you see through the view finder is what is coming in through the lens.  If you can see a viewfinder on the front of the camera then it’s not an SLR.  The benefit of an SLR is that it’s much easier to work out your composition before you press the shutter button.  Another feature of SLR’s is that you can change the lens allowing flexibility in expanding the capabilities of your camera.  (This is also true of some ‘bridge cameras’ which are kind of half way between the compacts and the true SLR’s.)

If you already have a DSLR (or an SLR) then what are you waiting for….  Get stuck in and have fun…

camera-2However, if you’re thinking of buying a camera what would I recommend…  Well if you buy a photography magazine you’ll find loads of articles reviewing the latest cameras with lots of impressive stats.  They’ll talk about megapixels, metering systems and lots of things that will make your head spin.  Read them, and if you’ve got loads of money trot off to your local photographic shop where a nicely dressed salesman (the vast majority are men) will smile and patiently sell you a camera with a lens probably for about £1200.  If you want to do this that’s fine, but my advice would be to look in the second hand section.  Since new digital cameras are brought out fairly frequently the older models often end up being traded in or sold second hand.  At this stage you don’t need those extra few pixels or the fancy metering system.  A basic DSLR from a good manufacturer such as Canon or Nikon with about 5 Megapixels or so is likely to be more than good enough to get you started.  As you start advancing you’ll be able to work out which features are most useful to you and upgrade your camera appropriately.

Lens wise I’d suggest you start with something in the range of a 28-70mm zoom.  The higher the number the more the lens will zoom in for you.  Humans see at about 50mm so a lens with that in its range is a good starting point.  Again second hand lenses, if they’ve been cared for, can be a great buy and well worth a look.  In fact I’d recommend you view your lens purchase as an investment more than your camera body.  If your glassware isn’t up to scratch it won’t matter how good you camera body is.  If you don’t want to go for a zoom then I’d recommend a 50mm lens (known as a 50mm prime lens).

camera-3So what kit do I use?  Well I started out with a Yashika film camera which was my 13th birthday present from my father (it’s still a treasured possession).  With this camera I learnt some of the basics before moving onto a Nikon F55.  My first published images were taken with the Nikon and I loved it a lot.  Soon, however, I moved onto a Nikon F90x which shared lenses with the F55.  Eventually I reached the point where I was looking at investing into some new lenses and decided to make the move to Canon.  I bought an EOS 3 which is a wonderful film camera and even now I get a tingle when I use it (which unfortunately isn’t often).  Then came my first digital, a Canon EOS 10D.  I’m still using that old 10D which is about 8 years old or so now.  I’m often asked by people why I don’t buy a newer one.  The simple answer is I don’t feel I need to.  I’m happy with the images I get from old faithful and haven’t really felt limited.  Some of these images have been printed out A3 size and hang on my walls.  I currently have 3 lenses which go on it (all also fit onto the EOS 3 film camera).  In addition over the years I’ve acquired a few other bits of kit such as a Tripod, Cable Release, data cards, bags etc.  If you’re interest in this wonderful art form you’ll acquire extra bits and bobs as well.  Some you won’t use much and others will become so familiar in your hands that they start to feel like an extension of you.

Next week on Foto Friday I’ll take a look at getting the right amount of light onto you sensor to form your image.

The photos in this post were taken of my faithful old camera with my mobile.  If you would like to see some of my photography then check out www.fantasiaphoto.co.uk