Foto Friday : It’s back! (well sort of)

ebook-cover

Last year I wrote a series of blog posts about the basic techniques of photography and was over whelmed by how well they were received.  I loved writing them and eventually made the decision to split my blog keeping this for crafting, while starting a new photography blog.

Those posts, however seemed to linger and have now evolved into an eBook.  The book itself is finished and we’re just waiting for a download issue to be resolved.  Once that is done it will be available to download in a couple of clicks.  It’s also going to be completely FREE!  Yes you read that correctly, free, at no cost, gratis.

That brings us back to Foto Friday.  During the creation of the book I asked some people to read it from a beginners view point.  What surprised me was that often as not, they would ask what the next one was going to be about.  Errrr – next one?  Hmmmm……

So it looks like Foto Friday has some new topics.  There will be some changes though such as I’m thinking of fortnightly rather than weekly.  Also when I asked about topics to cover people mentioned composition a lot.  So a look at some of the ideas in composition it will be.

Along side those posts I’m toying with the idea of mobile phones.  My good friend Heidi, who loves her new Nikon DSLR, has sheepishly confessed she still uses her Canon point and shoot more.  She’s familiar with it and it’s much easier to carry around.  Most of us will have a mobile with a camera on it.  So perhaps this would be something people would be interested in?  What do you think?  I will leave you with that question and as soon as the book is ready for download I’ll let you know.

Foto Friday : Evolution and an ‘Almost there’…

A little while ago I was talking to my friend Maytheweed (and trying to catch up after not having a proper natter in what felt like forever) and one of the things we talked about was the Foto Friday posts.  I have LOVED writing these posts and the feedback I’ve received here, via email and on google+ (+Mara Acoma if you want to find me) has been amazing.

But I’m thinking it’s time for a little bit of a change.  These posts so far have been roughly one a week and on the process side of photography.  By that I mean the mechanics of how your camera works and ways to set it up in order to get ‘that’ shot.  I’ve not talked much about composition or things like that.  This was mainly due to why I started the posts.  If you remember the original inspiration came from a friend (waves at Nikki) who asked about DSLR books to improve her skills. 

Anyway after much thought I’ve decided to change the emphasis of the series.  Widen the scope of them a bit and allow the series to evolve.  I’ll still ramble on about the sorts of things I’ve been talking about, but I’m going to start including other aspects, such as my own ideas and tastes more.  So many posts are likely to become more opinion based rather than factual.  I’ll try to make it clear when I’m saying something that is an opinion as I don’t want to mislead or confuse people.

So why the change?  In part because photography isn’t just about the mechanics.  If you ask a bunch of people what makes a great photo I doubt any would answer, ‘One that has been perfectly executed from a technical standpoint’.  By widening the scope it gives me a chance to explore these other less tangible aspects of this art form.  Yes, I do think it is an art form. 

 

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In that vein I’d like to share an image I took over the Christmas break.  This is St Mary’s in Dedham.  I’ve been pondering how best to photograph this church without it looking like just any of the hundreds that are dotted all over the country.  I visit this local village regularly and as the seasons have rolled past I’ve kept trying to work it out.  In the spring, summer and autumn the trees obscure the church…   At busy times there are to many cars…  You get the idea.

Eventually I decided to try a twilight shot.  Then last weekend as I headed into Colchester there was an unexpectedly beautiful sunset.  So I changed course and kept my fingers crossed there would still be enough light by the time I got there.  The sunset was fading by the time I got set up but I managed a quick shot.  I’m convinced there is a better shot at this location waiting for me to find it, but given the circumstances I’m pleased with this one for the time being.

Foto Friday : File Formats and Backups

This week I’d like to take a quick look at file formats and backups. I’m going to assume that you’re taking photos for your own pleasure here, professionals will obviously have restrictions placed on them by their clients so I’m going to ignore the taking images for profit angle.

Everyone is familiar with jpg’s, they are in common use but are they any use in photography? The name stands for ‘joint photographic experts group’, so you’d think it’d be great for photographers. Well maybe, maybe not. In a jpg file the information is compressed to make the files smaller, making them easier and quicker to load and transmit. No one wants images online that take so long to load the person sat at the computer has died of boredom or old age. So they are great for displaying images quickly, but are they good quality wise. Hmmm, not so much. You see when the digital image is compressed by definition some of the data will be lost. This might not be noticeable at first when you display the image on your monitor but once it’s gone it’s gone.

ALW-SIA-118

An old shot of a Siamese kitten.  Not my best.  Parts of his furr are a bit burnt out, meaning that they just appear as a white blob with no visible detail.  This is actually a scanned slide and on the original there is detail in those areas, unfortunately it was lost during the scanning process as the scanner used couldn’t match the quality of the slide film.

As a result of this many photographers don’t use the jpg setting on their camera. If they do then the camera will take all the information it captures and compress it before storing it on your memory card. Good for getting lots of images onto one card, but not so useful when you come to processing them later if quality is a consideration. Imagine you’ve got that amazingly stunning once in a lifetime shot, but as soon as you go to blow it up the quality just isn’t there. Gutted!

eye-1

This blow up of the eye was saved as a high quality jpg with minimal data compression.

eye-3

And even more on this one….  You can clearly see that there is loss of quality.

As a results many photographers use RAW, which pretty much saves all the data captured with minimal processing by the camera. (They’re sometimes called digital negatives because of this). This means the maximum amount of data is saved and you have much more to play with when you process your image. I always have my camera set to save the image files in RAW format. Then once at my computer I can use a software program (eg photoshop) to do the conversion giving me much more control. Normally I will open the RAW files up into Photoshop, make any adjustments then save one copy of the file in photoshop (psd) format and another in jpg. I can send the jpg to people if I wish but I still have the RAW and psd files if I want to edit them again.

You also need to consider backups. Having been through the trauma of losing the bulk of my images, including the backups (long story – don’t ask), I can’t stress the idea of backups enough. In addition to the multiple file formats for each file (RAW, Photoshop and jpg), I also upload a copy of the jpg to smugmug. I can direct people there to see examples of my work and it will act as a backup of that file. However, smugmug doesn’t currently backup RAW or psd files, and I have a lot of other data I don’t want to lose. I know many people use external hard drives, DVD’s etc for this but to be honest I’ve had those fail on me as well. So now I use online backup. There are some really good companies which will allow you to do this. The one I use is called Backblaze. A little program runs in the background on my computer and monitors designated folders. When I add files it will automatically back them up over the internet to two data centres located in different geographic locations. That way I know my data is safe and I don’t have to worry about it. I also don’t have to remember to do regular backups as the computer takes care of this. Offsite (ie not in your sock draw) backup is essential if you want to safeguard against things like fire. A few years ago there was a horrific plane crash here in England which happened really close to the main data centres of a high street banks. My ex was in the industry at the time and I can tell you there were a lot of relieved people because if that plane had landed on the data centre that bank would have been in real trouble. Now I don’t think a plane is going to land on my cottage and destroy all my stuff, but a break in, fire or burst water pipe could have just as devastating an effect.

I’d just like to add by the way that I’m not affiliated with Backblaze or Smugmug and I’m not getting anything out of mentioning them here. I’m just a customer who has been happy with the service I’ve received. There are other companies out there with similar services.

If you’d like to visit my smugmug pages then go to www.fantasiaphoto.co.uk (but I’ll warn you now I need to do some housekeeping on my folders to bring them up to date – eek).

Foto Friday–Playing with my new toy…

Ok I suppose this weeks post probably shouldn’t be part of the series as it’s not technically about helping you get to grips with Digital Photography.  Instead it’s shamelessly about all the fun I’ve had with my new camera body.

In the end I selected a Canon 30d which arrived last weekend.  All in all it took two weeks from old body malfunctioning to selecting and buying the new one.  During this time I only had my mobile phone camera and my old film cameras which I don’t use much any more.  Anyone know the phrase ‘withdrawal symptoms’?

Anyway here are some shots that I’ve taken with the new body.

The River Stour in East Anglia, England.

This one was first up.  The Stour forms the border between the counties of Essex and Suffolk and I’m fortunate enough to live beside it.  In fact this view is only a few minutes from my cottage and I go past it most days.  I love the feeling of peace in this shot.

The White Bridge on the River Stour, East Anglia, England.

Another shot but this time showing a little bit more of human activities.  This bridge is the last point to cross the river without having to resort to a ferry.  It also marks the highest navigable point on the river for anything other than a canoe.

The Port of Felixstowe at night.

The next river north of here is the Orwell and it joins with the Stour before reaching the sea.  At that point we have two of our ports, Felixstowe and Harwich.  After taking the shots of the Stour above I headed up onto the peninsular and took this shot looking over towards Felixstowe port.  This is primarily a container port and one of the busiest in Europe.

Felixstowe Port

Here is the same shot without a border.  I have mixed feelings on borders and titles.  Sometimes I like them and other times I’m not keen.  How do you feel?

Next up was a morning shoot just down the Stour from the first two shots at Manningtree.  The tide was out allowing me to walk right out onto the mud flats.  Yes I did get covered in mud, but such is life.

The River Stour at Manningtree, Essex, England.

I never get tired of seeing views like this and I fret constantly that my photographic skills aren’t up to doing this beautiful country justice.The River Stour at Manningtree, Essex, England.

Another shot from out on the mud flats.  I’m not quite as taken with this one as the first one. 

It can be so much fun to visit familiar places with your camera.  I find when I do this I often leave with a different perspective of familiar scenes.  Anyway these shots will be going into my small but growing number of images forming part of my pet project to document the local area where I live.  I love traveling and visiting places with my camera but I don’t want that to eclipse what’s on my door step.

Foto Friday–Tripods

Photographic equipment has been very much been on my mind the last few weeks. Mainly because my faithful of camera body has gone to that great photo workshop in the sky, dying after years of service. I’m now on the hunt for a new one.

However, one of the advantages of having a DSLR (or an SLR) system is that lenses and other equipment can be used with other camera bodies. Obviously there are different systems, but within a system you can swap stuff about. This means if I choose an appropriate camera body all my existing bits will fit and work.

I’m sure at this point some of my friends will be screaming the word ‘gadget’ as it’s well known I love my little electronic toys. Some are more useful than others and I definitely like my photo-gadgets to be useful. They don’t need to be expensive, although I would suggest you buy the best you can afford if it’s something you will use a lot.

So I thought it would be an idea to look at some different bits of kit, what you might use them for, and what factors you might want to consider before parting with your hard earned cash.  Given the iconic image of a photographer involves a tripod I thought that would be a good place to start.

tripod-1

So why might you want one?

The longer your shutter is open the more likely you hand will move or shake while the image is being created. So if you want to take shots where the shutter is open for more than about 1/90th of a second you’re going to need some way of holding your camera still. This usually involves placing your camera on something which won’t move. The most common way to do this is a tripod. You could however use a monopole, beanbag, fencepost, or in the case of some shots I’ve taken, a friends head! All that matters is that you keep that camera steady.

Tripods come in a huge price range from very cheap to ridiculously expensive. I own a SLIK one which I bought about 10 years ago (a PRO 400DX if you’re really that interested). I put a lot of thought into which one to buy and I’ve never regretted the decision.

The features I considered were :

  • Size. I wanted one which I could use at eye level without stooping, but which would also allow me to sit on the floor and be comfortable. Consider the type of images you wish to create with your tripod. How tall will it need to go? How close to the ground? How much space do the legs need when opened out? If you’re working in a very confined space then will you even be able to set it up.
  • Weight. As a basic rule the heavier the tripod is then the more stable it will be. This means that the cheap one in the local camera shop might be up to the job of holding your camera still while you’re photographing the rose you got for valentines day, but it’s unlikely to be much use outside in even a light breeze. Now a heavy tripod might be super stable but remember you will be carrying it around with you. Not great if like me you’re a weedy girlie and carrying heavy weights is an issue. So consider the types of shot you want to be able to take and look for the best compromise.
  • Construction. You want something durable which will be able to hold your camera still, but believe me you also want it to be easy to operate in the dark with cold fingers.  Do you want screw in place legs or some sort of click and lock mechanism.  What about the type of material used?  Carbon fibre may sound all snazzy but it’ll cost and is it worth it for your needs?
  • Attaching it to your camera.  Some tripods (often the cheaper ones) attach directly onto your camera. This can be fiddly and also time consuming.  Others use a base plate system where a ‘plate’ attaches to your camera and then this connects to your tripod.  While there is the risk of loosing your base plate this has the advantage of allowing you to quickly and easily attach and detach your camera.  Really convenient for changing lenses and quickly setting up for that special shot.

tripod-2

Something I would also throw into the mix here is foam legs.  My tripod has metal legs with a sort of foam wrap about them (you can just make this out in the photo at the top).  This means when outside I don’t have to put my hands on cold metal to carry it.  I paid a little extra for this but boy oh boy was it worth it!

In case you’re interested my SLIK tripod is primarily metal in construction with click and lock mechanisms on the legs for adjustment.  It also has two handles which are attached to ‘screws’ which allow me to set the angle of the camera, I’ve already mentioned the foam on its legs.  I don’t have a panoramic head for it or spirit levels etc, I didn’t think that they were necessary for the sort of work I was doing at the time I bought it.

Anyway I hope the dark nights are not stifling your photography to much.  If you get a tripod you can play about with night shots and long exposures which is always so much fun!  My new camera body should be with me in time for next Foto Friday as it’s hopefully already in the post.  Can you guess what I’m likely to be waffling about this time next week?  Hehe….

Foto Friday : Long Exposures

Since it’s Bonfire night tomorrow I thought this Foto Friday would be the ideal time to talk about long exposures.

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Single exposure 1.0 second, f3.5, ISO 1600

This is an area of photography where you’ll need a bit more equipment than just your camera.  You’ll need to ensure you keep your camera still while the shutter is open, (unless you’re deliberately moving it to get a special effect).  How you do this doesn’t really matter, as long as you do.  If you don’t you’ll get blurring to your image, referred to as camera shake.

Most people choose to keep their camera still by using a tripod.  This is the way I like to do it as well, although I have been known to use fences, beanbags, and even friends heads when needed.  Once your camera is securely in position you also need to consider if pressing the shutter button will cause a little bit of movement.  Normally the answer to this is yes.  There are a few ways round this, a remote cable release, using a timer feature, and some cameras will even allow you to press one button to get it to take 3, 5, 7 shots.  (I am tempted at this point to make a sarcastic comment about flash cameras and showing off for that last feature, but I won’t as I know it’s just because my old faithful camera won’t do it).

Mistley Towers, Essex, England

 HDR Composite image.  Shutter speeds ranging from 3 sec to 30 seconds at f6.7 and ISO 100

Tomorrow I shall be heading to my local fireworks display which is taking place about a mile from my cottage.  The beasties will all be shut inside and I’ll have my trusted camera, tripod and cable release.  I’ll also be hoping that I’ll get some shots worth the devastation that the beasties are bound to cause in my absence (I’m thinking about the dogs here).

The Market Square in Helmsley, North Yorkshire.  The monument is of William Duncombe, 2nd Earl of Feversham.

HDR Composite image.  Shutter speeds ranging from 10 sec to 30 seconds at f13 and ISO 100

My plan for the actual photographic side of the evening (apart from wearing my thermals), is fairly fluid.  I’m not sure what conditions I’ll find so it’ll be a case of adapting as the display progresses.  I do know I’ll be working with my camera on manual.  Keep your fingers crossed and I’ll let you know how I get on.

Foto Friday : Bracketing

Well I missed last Friday, real life just took over I’m afraid.  However, the previous week on Foto Friday post I mentioned bracketing.  This is something which can be done for different reasons and on both digital and film.  So what is it?

Well I first started using this technique when I still used film.  Basically you take several shots of the same scene with different exposure settings.  The idea is only to change the exposure, usually by changing the shutter speed, not any of the other settings.

waiting-at-heligan---images

The result is a series of images that are identical except for how bright they are.  In the grand old days of film this was often done to increase the likelihood of one of the exposures being what you want.  You didn’t really have a chance to check your settings until your film was processed.  In difficult lighting conditions that could be a problem.

Now in these modern days of DSLR’s, which have view screens on the back, that’s not such an important consideration.  However, (and I love this bit), it allows you to extend the type of image which you can create.  Oh, and you can usually set your camera up to do bracketing automatically.  On mine I need to go into the ‘menu’ on the back and then select bracketing, then I say how much difference I want between the shots.

Take the images above.  I shot these at The Lost Gardens of Heligan this past summer.  I had briefly left my mam in her wheelchair, happily reading her kindle, and wandeedr into a couple of buildings on my own.  This one was the old Head Gardeners Office and, like so many places at Heligan, it has a feeling of somewhere awaiting the return of it’s owner/occupant.  I wanted to try and capture that feeling somehow, to convey something of the sense I had when walking into that room.

waiting-at-heligan

With the wonders of digital imaging on computers you can now combine these bracketed images into one image.  You can take elements of one image and combine them with another image capture of the same scene to create the photograph you saw in your minds eye.  The camera doesn’t, and can’t, record the information in the same way the human eye does.  You can use software like Photoshop to try and get back to the image you saw.  This is a branch of photography now known as HDR (which stands for High Dynamic Range).

Of course this opens up a whole can of worms about image manipulation and whether it’s right or wrong.  Everyone seems to have an opinion on this and ‘photoshopping’ has become slang for misrepresenting or misleading with images.  It’s a wide debate and one I’m sure you can all make your own minds up about.  My own personal view is that provided that the image is honest, meaning it has no intent to mislead or even imply falsity, then it’s ok.

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Take this image from Rievaulx Abbey.  It’s is a HDR image created in Photoshop using 3 source files (i.e. 3 image captures).  Apart from being converted into black and white, it looks much like the stunning view I had when walking round.  I am not trying to hide it is a composite image, (no way can the camera record the bright sky and detail in the shadows all in one image), and I’m not trying to mislead with it.  So in my opinion this image is ok.

However, if I was to Photoshop an image of a model to make her look thinner, remove skin blemishes, or change her appearance in an attempt to get you to spend your hard earned cash on a product, I’d put that firmly in the ‘shouldn’t be done’ category.  In fact that would be firmly in the making my blood boil category… but don’t get me started!

Anyway what are your thoughts on the subject?  Also I have a few more ideas for Foto Friday but is there anything in particular you’d like me to waffle on about?

Foto Friday – Speed?

Well here we are again. This week I want to talk about another one of the settings on your camera. This once is known as ‘Shutter Priority’ and is often represented by a ‘S’. Just like ‘Aperture Priority’ it can be thought of as either semi-manual or semi-automatic dependant on your point of view.

I prefer to think of these as semi-manual as the most important factor, which the photographer dictates, is manually set. In this case it is the speed which the shutter opens and closes. This is important when you are photographing things which are moving. You may wish to stop action or blur it, both are easiest to do by controlling the speed.

As a rule of thumb if you want to freeze action you need a fast speed. Blurring will happen when your shutter is open longer. There is no hard and fast rule about the actual speed needed though as it really does depend upon how fast things in the frame (i.e. what you can see through your view finder) are travelling. A Formula 1 car will require a much faster shutter speed to freeze it in place than my dog running about.

Now I get to photograph my dogs much more than Formula 1 cars, so I’ll use them for illustration here. Yeah, I wish I could get access to somewhere like Silverstone with my camera but if wishes were horses and all that. Anyway lets look at some shots.

FF-Pebs1

ISO 100 f 2.8  at 1/1500th sec

This one shows Pebbles running in a field. You can tell she’s bounding about by the way her ears are frozen in mid air.  I love taking this sort of shot of her with her ears bouncing like pigtails. This was taken on Shutter Priority so it was easier for me to freeze the action. I often use this setting when I take my camera out with my canine models. I’ll typically go for between 1/250th to 1/1500th of a second dependent upon the conditions and the type of shot I’m hoping to get.

FF-JAKE1

ISO 100  f 16.0 and 1/90th of a second

In this shot I wanted to show Jake ‘in action’ so to speak. He’d just come out of the sea and was shaking himself off. His head is moving much faster than the rest of him and I wanted to show some of that movement. So I’ve used a shutter speed which wasn’t quite fast enough to stop the head action but just give a little bit of blur (which is also visible on the water coming off him).

SEonSea-004

ISO 400 f 16.0 and 1/250th of a second

Another example where you might want to only partially freeze the action is with something like helicopters. This shot was taken at the Southend Airshow this year and while I could have completely frozen the action, I wanted to be able to show that the blades really were turning. Otherwise it could just be a model or something. In this shot the body of the aircraft is sharply in focus (relatively slow moving) but there is some blurring on the blades.

SEonSea-011

ISO 200 f 16.0 and 1/350th of a second

In this shot of the Red Arrows I wanted to completely stop the action as a blurry jet plane just look like they’re out of focus (no visible moving parts you see).  Not long after this shot was taken at another airshow one of the Red Arrow pilots was killed.  I couldn’t help wonder if he was in one of these planes I watched and photographed.

Right then…. Time for you guys to have a go! (and don’t forget to let me know how you get on).

Foto Friday– the f word

Well I’ve had a seriously busy week.  I’ve not stopped at work and have been so exhausted on an evening I’ve been falling asleep on the sofa.  Hence no posts since last Foto Friday.  Thing is I don’t want to start something like this and then immediately start missing them (if you’re a Pratchett fan, think Sam Vines and ‘Where’s my cow?’) so I hope you’ll forgive me if todays Foto Friday is a little shorter than the previous ones.

Ok then, so we’ve got our camera and a bit of an idea about how we get an image on the image sensor.  Time to start exploring those modes that aren’t fully automatic.  First up is ‘Aperture Priority’, usually shown as either ‘A’ or ‘Av’ on your camera.  On mine there is a little dial which you turn round and it’s shown as Av.

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This is a semi-manual mode where you make some of the decisions and the camera will work out the rest for you.  In this case you control the size of the aperture or ‘hole’ which allows the light in when you click to take a photograph.  Remember the wider the hole the more light will come through in the same amount of time.  Think of the pupil in your eye… if it’s dark and you need more light to see then your iris makes your pupil bigger.  Bright sunshine and the pupil is smaller.  We humans don’t have to think about this but it’s worth spending some time to learn about it on your camera.

If you use Aperture Priority then you control the size of the hole and the camera will work out how fast it needs to open and close (speed) to get a well exposed photograph.  So what would you use it for?  Remember those beautiful shots where a flower, person, dog, wombat, whatever, is in perfect focus and the background is blurred allowing the subject to pop out and look amazing?  You know where I’m going with this now don’t you……

av-1

Think of a line extending from your camera to the back of your photo (in my example the wall).  The wider the aperture (hole) then the smaller the amount of the line that will be in focus.  The size of the aperture is known as the ‘f-stop’  the smaller the number the wider the aperture (yeah I know that doesn’t seem logical but hey that’s life).

So lets look at the example above (shot in the exotic location of my front garden, oh the glamour of it all).  On the left I focused on the flower and opened the aperture up as wide as my lens would go.  This means f-stop 2.8 (remember a small number means a wide hole).  The result is a shot where a small area in front and behind what I focused on (the rose) is in focus, the rest gets progressively more and more blurred.  In the middle is f11.  The area in front and behind the rose which is in focus is larger and has just about reached the wall of the cottage.  So the wall now appears much more in focus.  On the right is f22 (smallest hole) so the maximum is in focus.  The wall is now even sharper.  We can see it better if I blow them up a bit…

av2

Now obviously the length of time the aperture is open was different for both shots, but we can let the camera worry about that.

So, now you know that what people are talking about when they mention f-stops.  The amount of the image that is in focus is known as the ‘Depth of Field’ and I’ll look at more effects you can get my manipulating this next week.  Take care, have fun with your camera, and let me know how you get on (yes that was a hint hehe)….

 

Mara